Nihonshu was first brewed in 8th century Japan , not as a drink fit for human consumption, but as an offering to appease the gods of agriculture and to give thanks for a bountiful harvest. In order to make sake good enough for the gods, one needs high-quality water, rice, koji a mold that produces enzymes used in the fermentation process , and yeast. However, variations in the fermentation process can result in cloudy, amber-colored sake, or even sparkling variations. Sake is fermented in a three-step process, whereby the moromi the fermented mash resembling rice pudding is pressed and filtered for color, then bottled and matured.
Pretty straightforward, right? The clarity of sake lends itself to the degree of charcoal filtration, a process called roka.
But, before we get to this step in the sake-making process, the mash is first pressed through a mesh to separate the lees from the liquid. This process is called kosu in Japanese. Those are particles that can result in a cloudy appearance and golden tint. While it might seem like anything other than clear sake is defective, keep in mind that not all sake are created equally. We may think of Japanese cuisine as a unified menu consisting of sushi, oodles of noodles, and the occasional eyebrow-raising delicacy.
However, each region in Japan has its own cuisine and local flavor, resulting in sake that pairs well with these regional dishes. As a result, sake brewed in one region of Japan will likely differ from another region.
Likewise, different types of sake brewed in the same region can differ greatly! How does it taste? Backing up a step or two, when sake is made, the rice ferments in a large tank for a period of anywhere between 18 and 36 days. The clear, amber sake is then separated from these solids in one of several ways, all of which call for passing the sake through a mesh of some sort. Sometimes this mesh is inside a pressure-driven machine, sometimes it is but a canvas bag into which the moromi has been poured.
There are various ways, some better than others. But regardless of which method is used, the moromi passes through a mesh, with the pale amber ambrosia passing through and the white solids, or lees, remaining behind. So, in most sake then, we have an almost clear liquid as the result of the pressing of the lees away from the sake. In nigori-zake, however, not all of the lees are pressed away; some of the unfermented solids are left behind deliberately, giving a rich, creamy, fabulously interesting flavor.
There are several styles or forms that nigori-zake can take. Much nigori-zake is sweet and smooth and creamy in texture. One good example is Tsuki no Katsura from Kyoto, who makes quite a bit of nigori-zake; an inordinate percentage of their production in fact. This sake is apparently available in the US as well. Tart and rich, there are an abundance of recognizable unfermented rice grains floating that give it a special charm.
Sake like this is not stable, and will change quickly, but it is indeed fun to try. As we've discussed before , when ginjo and daiginjo sakes are made, the fermenting mash is passed through mesh bags to result in clear liquid. With nigori, a mesh with larger openings is used so that some of the rice solids can escape into the liquid as well.
New to nigori? Here are a couple things to keep in mind:. The creaminess of nigori makes it an excellent contrast for spicy food. I showed up to a Super Bowl party one year with a nigori and spicy chicken wings , which I was mocked for until everyone realized how well the two went together. Another favorite pairing of mine is nigori and desserts , particularly anything with chocolate.
Sometimes at home I just pour it right over a bowl of chocolate ice cream, and the result is heavenly. Nigori is also making its way into the cocktail world in a big way. On the more decadent side, the Hurricane Club's large format combines nigori, raspberries, lemongrass, and mango into a festive punchbowl for sharing. Daishichi "Yukishibori", Fukushima A refreshing, unusually dry nigori sake. This sake is lightly sparkling. Daishichi's nigori is not as rice-y as most, and can be enjoyed as an aperitif.
The result is surprisingly well balanced. Kyota Murai, president of the brewery, credits with the higher acidity: "Acidity keeps the flavor creamy while mellowing the alcohol and sweetness.
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