This all the gunk and schmootz from fingertips, palms, and other apendages that come in contact with the rubber grip areas on Maxxum bodies and lenses. The only way to keep it from coming back is to not use your Minoltas. You'll drive yourself nuts trying to wipe it off with rags, paper towels, and cleansers. Use a blunt burnishing tool, edge of a plastic spoon, or similar weapon.
Those pesky grooves around the lenses are easily dealt with a wooden matchstick. A couple passes in one direction of each one will yield a tiny ball of gunk that's a cinch to wipe off with a clothe with a spritz of windex. Only when you get it all off can you do a touch up with Armorall I have had very good results using 'Mothers Back to Black" found in the automotive cleaners section. It seems to have effective cleaners, then it all wipes clean.
Alan, The White stuff is called "bloom" and it is actually sometimes engineered into the rubber to protect the rubber from dry rot. Dry rot is really just damage caused by ozone, UV, Cosmic ray and whatnot. Dry rot makes the rubber craze, turn brittle, crack and shrink. It may also just be poor rubber formulation where some component has reached its solubility limit. I guess that it is the technique that's used by many of you, so I thought that it was worth writing about it.
Guess what happened next? When I came back two of the bottom leaves were feeling unwell and turned yellow. One yellow leaf dropped this morning when I moved the plant and the other one will follow soon, sadly. Not sure if I'll be able to recover this leaf.
Let's analyze what's happened and learn something:. The soil was totally dry initially, but the plant was feeling healthy. Planning ahead for the holiday break, I watered from above, too much at once. The water intake wasn't homogeneous and the excess water didn't drain properly. Roots at the bottom of the pot had to sit in excess water for many days. The plant reacted to this by sacrificing the older leaves at the bottom of the stem, in favor of the new ones the large leaves that are directly attached to the main stem of the plant are the oldest.
I probably should have watered less , more evenly, or made sure to drain excess water properly see the soaking technique which constantly proves to have better results.
To fix the problem , I stopped watering her for a longer period of time, cut the dead leaves and let her be. Both of these conditions can cause yellowing leaves.
You need to strike a balance with watering. Re-read the watering section earlier in this blog post and try to follow all the other cultural practices with light, fertilizing, etc. It could also be that your rubber plant is severely pot bound and needs to be repotted into a bigger pot. Be sure to read these critical repotting tips before you repot any houseplant.
This is normally due to improper watering. Read the answer to the question above. This could potentially be the result of a bacterial or fungal infection. Bacterial infections would typically have a yellowish halo around the brown spot, and fungal infections would typically lack the halo.
These infections can be caused by keeping plants too wet, especially in areas of low light and poor air circulation. If you see little tiny white dots around the outer edge of your rubber plant leaves, this is no cause for alarm! These tiny white dots are called lithocysts. Lithocysts are enlarged cells that contain calcium carbonate crystals and is normal for rubber plants.
This is most likely due to a watering issue. Keeping the soil too dry or too wet can cause the leaves to droop and curl. Is it super dry? Is it wet? This will tell you what is going on. If you neglected your plant and it has gone too dry, you need to be more attentive to watering. If your soil is staying too wet for too long, there could be a number of issues that cause this:.
Curling can also be caused my lower humidity. Proper watering is by far more important, but if you can increase the humidity as well, this is great for your plants. All these kinds of stress on the plant can produce deformed leaves. Check your plant for pests. Do you see anything crawling or flying around? If that checks out OK, think about your care. Have you ignored your houseplant for a while?
Maybe let it stay dry for a very long time while new leaves were developing? And maybe it is also in a dark spot? Inconsistent care can result in deformed new leaves. Resume consistent watering, light levels, etc and your plant will thank you and new growth will look normal again. Nutrient deficiencies are not as common, but if you are using a good, complete fertilizer available on Amazon like Dyna-Gro Grow , you should not have to worry about these issues.
And you should be fertilizing regardless! If your plant is growing in very warm or hot conditions, and it is receiving too much direct sun, it may scorch the leaves. Variegated plants are sensitive to this.
Improper watering can also cause this. Discard excess water. You can safely and easily remove those stubborn hard water stains from your rubber plant leaves.
Simply mix 1 teaspoon of white vinegar to a gallon of warm water. Gently wipe the leaves that have hard water stains. The vinegar helps to dissolve those stubborn mineral deposits from hard tap water. This method should be used sparingly and only when absolutely needed. When you first bring a plant home, some plants may respond a little dramatically by shedding leaves. The plant can be in shock from having gone to a bright, humid greenhouse to average indoor conditions.
Be sure to place your plant right in front of a window ALL the time, but especially when you first bring a plant home in order to make the transition a little smoother. If you just moved your plant into brighter conditions, give it a little time. Proper watering, light and fertilizing will eventually get you there, but have a little patience.
But they truly are easy if you follow my cultural practices concerning light, watering, and soil. It is one of my easiest least fussy plants. Please do me a favor and share this post to social media because it will help me spread the Ohio Tropics houseplant care tips to the masses!
Thank you so much for such a comprehensive and informative post. It helps me know my ruby is happy with the changes. Eventually more of the leaf will go crispy and drop. Any ideas? I have heard that wiping the boots down with vinegar before re-polishing can help.
IIRC my oldest pair of black boots had some salt marks a while back, but I defeated them through repeated polishing and stubbornness.
It is an annoying and persistent problem, though. One thing I do is always wipe my shoes with a wet wipe when I come in. I haven't had many salt stains lately and I think that could be one reason why. It looks like salt stains, and perhaps polishing drew out the salt. Try white vinegar solution now there's salt stain remover , but time is of the essence to neutralise the stained areas, which may take a bit of time, then clean with plain water, then once the stains are drawn out apply leather conditioner and re-polish.
Best answer: Yep, salt; the destroyer of shoes here in Canada.
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